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NYC Pizza Heaven - Varasano’s Pizzeria

Bet you didn’t know that some of the best New York Pizza you can find is located in Atlanta. I’ve been tracking internet pizza guru Jeff Varasano for a couple of years now.  His 40+ page treatise on making pizza dough is the stuff of legend in the food subculture.  That’s forty pages of pizza dough - not pizza or even making pizza - just the dough.  That obsession is more understandable when you consider that Jeff’s first stab at minor celebrity status began when he set the Rubik’s Cube record at 24.something seconds - at age 14.

The Goods

The Goods

Real pizza is of course all about the dough.  Then comes cooking technique.  Ingredients are last in the order of importance. 

Jeff Varasano, an engineer by trade, was born and raised in the Bronx, ground zero for New York pizza.  Whenever one is raised with extraordinary being the norm, you don’t know how good you have it until you don’t have it anymore.  This very problem faced Jeff when he relocated to Atlanta in 1998, reason unknown (to me anyway). That situation resulted in his quest to replicate or exceed the product he was used to in his native New York. Along the way, he determined that good dough is as much art as science and needs the regular care of a craftsman.  And the pizza oven must be around 800F.  Pizza stone completely optional. 

To get these temperatures at home, Jeff modified his home oven to disable the interlock for the oven cleaning cycle.  (The “cleaning cycle” is really just the “really high temperature cycle.”).  You can get these temperatures - and results at home - without destroying the Maytag - but that is for another day.

Watching the crew in action was interesting.  Everyone had a single job.  One guy crafted the dough.  Guy 2 tossed the dough into the base for the pizza.  Number 3 built the pie.  Four runs the oven, regularly “shooting” the oven with an infrared thermometer to ensure they oven was at the desired temperature - not relying on the 385C at the digital readout of the oven. Finally, the fifth guy dresses the pizza with a bit of oil and herbs, if you asked for it.

Does it work?  Generally yes.  The pizza was in fact extraordinary.  The char on the crust was essentially flawless.  The sauce and hunks of mozzarella just as they should be. Everyone should experience such a pizza.  It is nothing at all like any mass produced delivery you’ll ever have.  Maybe only ten joints in North America are on par with Varasano’s

A Quick Lesson in Dough

A Quick Lesson in Dough

Still, there are kinks.  Customer service is ok, not great.  Timing off drinks and such totally off.  Worse, the accuracy of the orders was poor.  I ate there twice this week. Go what I ordered once.  Simply put, the focus on the attention to the kitchen has not carried forward into the training of the wait staff. 

Worst part was, Jeff stopped the whole operation for 20 minutes on my first visit to give the kitchen a lesson/critique on dough-making during service.  Because the kitchen is open to the dining room, this was all in plain sight for all to see.  While I encourage the training of the staff, it should not be in view of the patrons.  And the way he was talking to the staff, I wouldn’t expect them all to stay.

Of course, the pizza was extraordinary.  If you visit Atlanta, you must put Varasano’s on your itinerary.

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