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Chinato - What the?

SpiceSo I’m at Oleana in Boston. With a 28 Zagat food rating, I was looking forward to great things from Chef Ana Sortun of Spice fame (review to follow later this week.)  Everything is going great and then there it was on the dessert menu.  Chinato of Nebbiolo, Damilano ‘Barolo Chinato,’ Piemonte, Italy. I am nothing close to an expert on things wine but always thought I had the big pieces mapped out.  This was truly new to me. Did I really have a choice?

Initially, I had the sense the class had been filled with a homeopathic remedy for a disease I could only hope I did not have and would not ever get.  Sure enough, though, after a time one could detect the definite presence of Barolo. This was no ordinary wine. The medicinal overtones remained throughout the glass but I could imagine acquiring a taste for the stuff. You could almost say I liked it before it was all over.

Turns out that homeopathic remedy was not that far off the mark. In the 1800s, pharmacists prepared compounds of spices to treat flu, colds, headaches, digestive and appetite problems and other ailments. These compounds were produced from the few basic pharmaceutical products available.  Of note was pharmacist Giuseppe Cappellano, who seriously undertook the creation of an efficient digestive. Ultimately, he developed an infusion of quinine bark, clove, wormwood and cinnamon. By the mid-1900s, Barolo Chinato had practically disappeared due its costliness. It is available now from a handful of suppliers in the $70+ range.  As with most things food, I encourage you to give it a try and see if it’s a fit for you.

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